Graduation

Today was the graduation of the Port Elizabeth trainers. I wish to God that my camera hadn't run out of battery power (or that I had the foresight to bring the charger from Cape Town) because we had some amazing speeches and performances at the 'ceremony'. One participant, Mlandeli Mpapa (aka "Afro") recited an incredible poem that blew us all away. Two other girls, Ntsikie and N'tosh casually sauntered up to sing for us (unrehearsed) and when N'tosh opened her mouth it was like being in the room with Aretha Franklin.

One of the other girls gave her Coach's Story (something we do with the kids to bond and explain why we're with GRS) about her cousin dying of HIV/AIDS. What was especially brave was that she admitted to having shunned her cousin when she got sick even though they had been best friends. This was just back in 1998, not even 10 years ago, when HIV was denied to exist in South Africa. They didn't speak for months and we she finally got the right information about how the disease can spread, she discovered her cousin had died the day before.

aside: One thing I want to say here is that I will probably share many of these stories over the next year. But I encourage absolutely everyone to read 28 Stories of AIDS in Africa by Stephanie Nolen. It's unbelievable. They only thing more powerful is to hear similar stories spoken first hand.

Back to the Coach's Story. One thing I learned: although I knew that much misinformation about HIV was spread through word of mouth and by the government etc, I didn't realize there have been active campaigns to ostracize those with the virus. She told us a man came to her high school to tell the students that if they saw anyone at all with symptoms of AIDS (rapid weight loss, lesions, hair thinning etc) to stay away from them and not to help them. I suppose this was the only way some people could think of to stop the spread but the thought of such callousness is appalling.

This was one of the moments (of which there have already been many) that I know what we are doing is helping to change this country. We target strigma and encourage children to build support systems of family and friends. We give them the information to make positive decisions and ask them to go out and spread this in the communities. We have already reached 100 000 people in nearly 5 years in Africa. Such a small organization can do so much.

It's All Fun and Games Until...

That's right, until someone loses an eye. Well I nearly lost my eye. I got 2-3 fingers directly in the eye-ball during a demo of a handball game we play with the kids. This week we were doing a Training of Trainers but it's full on participation and people get really into the games. Let me choose now to underline the fact that we're not all soccer players at Grassroot Soccer nor are we all as coordinated as others. I love everyone for being different but at some moments I love some less than others. Like when I'm doubled over on a dusty footy field with mental visions of scratched corneas and various bacteria seeping into the lesion. Too much? Yeah ok well i guess it wasn't that bad, but until my insurance goes through I can be as worried as I want. Anyway, I had a right to be concerned as the bathroom we were all using was a far cry worse than what I'd seen in Asia (and believe me, i've peed in some places you wouldn't throw your trash).

But I digress.

I am in fact fine now... it was very hard to look around with all the refocusing and whatnot the last couple of days but I am very very happy to report my vision seems to be ok. Very happy. I know these things happen and it should just serve as a reminder that life doesn't take it easy on you just because you've travelled around the world to help others. It still kicks you hard when you're not looking and makes you appreciated what little you may have. Like arms and legs and your 5 senses.

Cape Breton vs Cape Town

This is the view up the street from the house I am staying in at the moment. I believe the peak of the mountain is called Lion's Head... but it's hard to tell what you're looking at through the mass of wires (including the gates and electric fence as pictured at the bottom). I wasn't actually able to leave the property at this time to take a proper picture. There were some builders sitting across the street who may have been very friendly or who may have tried to swipe my camera (so I was warned). Best to stay behind bars sometimes. Seems like a lifetime ago I was in Cape Breton, not even needing to lock the door at night!

The night after a party in C.B.? No! The alternative to a barbed wire fence in C.T. Location: Top of wall outside my bedroom window.



OK, so I haven't seen too much of the city yet, but I'm not being held captive inside the house! I go with Ryan (the doctor I mentioned before who is the director of Grassroot Soccer for the country) to the office and on errand runs. I am able to go jogging by myself on the promenade just down the street which runs along the coast as long as there's daylight. The scenery really is incredible - it's sort of like Rio de Janeiro with the city sprawling up the mountain away from the beach. The whole place is so beautiful, it's hard to believe that it has such a history of violence and hate...

Having said that, even this quiet, relatively peaceful area is surrounded by walls. Every house has a wall, a gate, an electric fence. But you quickly become immune to it, because everyone else is. It's just a natural part of life. All the walls are cement and painted in pretty colors. They coordinate with the neighbours' walls like hedges do in the suburbs back home. On the inside people have trampolines and well-kept gardens. The only difference is it's VERY clear that this is MY trampoline and these are MY gardens! But this is a product of what has come before and I don't see a closed off or snobbish attitude in the people I've met. On the contrary, Ryan and Dani are extremely generous and welcoming. They practically share their whole home with the family that stays in their guesthouse (this family's house recently burnt down in their hometown).

Next entry I'll have a bit more about what GRS does around the country. I'm still just getting my bearings and getting over jet lag. I'm also determined to find out what sort of creature woke me up at 4am last night. All I know was that I couldn't get back to sleep for an hour. I'm pretty much convinced it was an owl. Did mention I'm still getting over the the jet lag?

South African Spotted Eagle Owl


Cape Breton Grey Owl

I have arrived...

Well I'm sure we all felt it would never happen..but here I am in South Africa!

Cape Town is beautiful - I have always wanted to be surrounded by water and mountains. However, I was hoping for the ability to come and go as I please but you can't have everything. My neighbourhood is relatively safe in the day but nowhere really is after dark.

If you haven't seen a picture of Cape Town before, you must. And here, I'll make it easier for you,

http://www.tropicalisland.de/south_africa_cape_town.html

Google “Cape Town Picture” you’ll find some more great aerial views.

I haven’t had a chance to sight-see so far. Got in midnight yesterday after 25 hours of flying (brief stops in Dakar and Johannesburg) and slept till noon today. My host family is a young doctor (Ryan Janks) from J’burg, his wife and their 2 year old son Jamie who had his face glued to a show called ‘Wiggles’.** ^{see below}

Ryan (also director of the Grassroot Soccer program in Cape Town) took me to the office today to get familiar with the layout. That took 0.5 seconds as it is a small rented room about 10 feet by 6. At least there’s none of that bothersome excess “space” for things to get lost in. I helped out with some admin before going out to purchase a cell phone and test out my BMO ATM card. It worked. Very, very good.

Other than that I had dinner with Ryan and Dani (his wife) this evening. We had falafels and no, mom, falafels are not South African, they are a middle-eastern food. I’m sure I will taste the finer delicacies of this area soon.

So that’s it for 24 hours in “the Dark Continent”. Disappointed? You shan’t be soon; I will have much to write about in coming days including my trip to Port Elizabeth this weekend to see the Grassroot Soccer program in full swing.

More to come…

**First thing learned in South Africa: ‘Wiggles’ is a bizarre song-and-dance group from Australia comprised of 4 men, all an estimated 40 years of age in goony outfits with oddly exaggerated facial expressions. It is wildly (and inexplicably) popular in Oz and apparently sells out to stadiums of people. Said foursome previously made many attempts (and I’m assuming this was some time ago) to become a “boy-band”, eventually foregoing these dreams by deciding to put on some goofy suits, come up with a silly dance and renounce their dignity forever. And thus they were henceforth known as “Wiggles”. At this point, you may be thinking that the children’s program ‘Teletubbies’ was perhaps more peculiar than these four fellows, and you would be correct. However, the career choice of these men and their subsequent stardom surely rivals the incoherent prattle and tripped-out nature of those giant pear-shaped martians in terms of absolute weirdness.

I didn’t say first thing learned of South Africa…